Motorcycle suspension adjustments…..So let me paint you a picture: I’m bombing down this twisty backroad on my old Suzuki, right? Wind in my teeth, bugs in my helmet vents, just vibing. And then—bam! A pothole hits. Or maybe I hit it. Doesn’t matter. My spine compresses like an accordion, and my bike bounces like it’s auditioning for a lowrider video.
And I’m like, “Okay, that’s it. We’re doing this. I’m learning how motorcycle suspension adjustments actually work.”
Spoiler alert: It’s not rocket science. But it can feel like you’re cracking the Da Vinci Code if you’re new to it.
So this is your semi-chaotic, totally real-world, beginner’s guide to suspension stuff. Written by someone who got tired of bottoming out every time they hit a speed bump.
Why Suspension Even Matters (No, It’s Not Just for Comfort)
A lot of people think suspension is just about how cushy the ride feels. Like your bike is either a Tempur-Pedic mattress or a brick. But nope. Suspension affects everything:
- How your bike handles in corners
- Braking stability
- Acceleration traction
- Your wrists not shattering on rough roads
Basically, if your bike feels weird or unpredictable, odds are your suspension is outta whack. Or your tires are flat. But let’s focus on the bouncy bits today.
The Three Key Suspension Settings (aka The Holy Trinity of Not Crashing)
Alright, there are three main things you can adjust, and they all sound fancy but aren’t too bad once you get the vibe:
1. Sag (a.k.a. “How low can you go”)
This is how much your bike sinks under your weight. It’s step #1 for a reason—if sag is wrong, everything else is messed up before you start.
You need two numbers:
- Static sag (bike’s own weight)
- Rider sag (you on the bike, gear and all)
And yeah, you’ll need a buddy. Or a wall. Or a mirror and an unhealthy amount of stubbornness.
2. Preload
This adjusts how stiff the spring is at rest. More preload = higher ride height = less sag. It’s not about firmness, it’s just about setting the baseline.
Me, when I first adjusted preload: “Cool, so if I max it out, I get MAXIMUM SPEED?”
Spoiler: No. You get a pogo stick on crack.
3. Rebound & Compression Damping
These are your fine-tuners:
- Rebound = how fast the suspension extends back after compressing
- Compression = how fast it compresses when you hit a bump
More damping = slower movement. Less damping = faster movement. It’s like setting the “personality” of your bike. Chill? Twitchy? Wobbly goblin? You decide.
The “How-To” Part (Let’s Not Blow Up Anything)
Step 1: Measure Your Sag
- Put your bike on a stand (wheels off the ground)
- Measure from the axle to a point on the tail (call this A)
- Take the bike off the stand, sit on it in full gear
- Measure again (call this B)
- Subtract B from A = your rider sag
General rule of thumb:
- Front sag: 30-40mm
- Rear sag: 25-35mm
Too much? Add preload. Too little? Remove preload.
Step 2: Adjust Preload
Usually it’s a ring or knob on the shock. Front is trickier—you might need a special wrench. (Ask your bike’s manual. Or the internet. Or your local motorcycle wizard.)
Adjust a little at a time. Like… one turn. See how it feels.
Step 3: Set Damping (Slow the Heck Down)
Most bikes have little clickers labeled C (compression) and R (rebound). Turn them all the way in (clockwise), then count clicks out as you loosen them. That’s your baseline.
Test ride after every tiny tweak. No, really. Like, just a few blocks. The difference is wild.
Stuff I Learned the Dumb Way (You’re Welcome)
- More preload doesn’t make your bike faster. It makes it skittish.
- Too much rebound damping feels like riding a log. The shock doesn’t return in time, so it packs down and stays squished.
- Compression too stiff? Say hello to your spine every time you hit a pothole.
- Always write down your settings. Trust me. You will forget. Even if you swear you won’t.
Motorcycle suspension adjustments: Problems
Bike feels floaty or unstable
- Probably too little rebound damping. Try adding a few clicks.
Front dives hard when braking
- Not enough front preload or too soft compression damping.
Rear kicks up or bucks
- Rebound is too fast. Slow it down a couple clicks.
Bike corners like a drunk shopping cart
- Could be anything. Start with sag, then work through damping.
Do You Need Fancy Suspension?
Okay yeah, those $2,000 Ohlins shocks look cool. But unless you’re track racing or extremely picky, your stock suspension is probably fine with adjustments.
Get it tuned for you. Not your dealer’s cousin who’s 40 pounds lighter and only rides in a wind tunnel.
Bonus: Tools You Might Actually Need
- Zip ties (to mark travel on fork tubes)
- Sag tool (or just a tape measure and patience)
- Shock spanner wrench
- Notebook or app to track settings
If you’re lazy (me), there are even apps that calculate sag based on your measurements.
Final Thought: Trust Your Butt: Motorcycle suspension adjustments
If something feels off, it probably is. Suspension isn’t black magic. It’s just springs and oil and settings. You don’t need a PhD. You need a feel for your ride.
Tinker. Ride. Tinker again. That’s the cycle. (Pun definitely intended.)
And hey, if you overdo it and your bike suddenly handles like a seesaw on acid?
Just set everything back to stock and start over. We’ve all been there.
